Does Your Florida Home Need a 4-Point Inspection?

Has an agent just asked you for a 4-point report and you are not sure what that is?

You are in good company. The request tends to land at an awkward moment: you are buying an older house, switching insurers or renewing a policy, and someone says you need a 4-point by a certain date.

A 4-point inspection is a short, focused review of four systems in a house: the roof, the electrical system, the plumbing and the heating, ventilation and air conditioning. It is not a full home inspection. It does not tell you whether to buy a house or what the kitchen looks like. It answers one narrow question for each system: what is there, and what condition is it in?

I carry these out across Florida, and this page explains what I look at in each of the four areas, what you can do to make the visit easier and how the finished report is usually used. It makes no promises about what an insurer will decide, because that decision is theirs and follows their own rules.

If you already know what you need, the request page takes a couple of minutes. If you want to understand it first, keep reading.

Why do Florida insurers ask for a 4-point?

Insurers in Florida often want to know the age and condition of the parts of a house most likely to cause a loss. Roofs let water in. Old wiring can overheat. Aging plumbing can leak. Worn air conditioning can drip or fail. A 4-point gives them a photographic record of those four, so they can decide how to treat the house.

The request commonly comes for older homes, with the exact cut-off decided by each insurer, not by me. Some ask for a fresh report at every renewal; some only when you first apply or after a change of ownership. I do not know a given company's rules, so I suggest you ask your agent exactly what they need, how recent the report must be and whether it has to be on a specific form.

Once you have an answer, tell me when you call. I can fill the form that matches what is asked, and I will say so honestly if I think the request calls for a different type of report, such as a wind mitigation report or a roof inspection.

What do I look at on the roof for a 4-point?

The roof section of a 4-point is smaller than a full roof inspection, but it covers the points an insurer cares about most. I identify the covering type, estimate its age where records or signs allow, and note its condition: granule loss, cracking, curling, missing or slipped pieces, exposed fasteners and visible patching.

I also check the details that tend to fail first, including flashing, vent boots and penetrations, and I note any signs of past or current leaks, such as ceiling stains under the roof. I record the number of layers where it can be seen, and I take photos of each slope.

If a roof needs more than the 4-point's roof section allows, such as a close look at every flashing or a full written condition report, I will say so. That is when a standalone roof inspection makes sense.

What do I look at in the electrical system?

Electrical is where the age of a house tends to show. I open the main panel cover where it is safe and permitted to do so, and photograph what I find. I look at the brand and amperage of the service, the type and condition of the breakers, any signs of scorching or rust, and whether the panel has double-tapped breakers or open knockout holes.

• Service size. Whether the main service is of a size that suits the house.
• Panel type and condition. Some older panel designs are ones insurers ask about by name, and I record what is installed.
• Branch wiring type. Copper, aluminum, or older cloth-covered types where visible, since some older wiring is something insurers want identified.
• Grounding and bonding. Visible connections at the panel and the service.
• Signs of heat or damage. Discolored outlets, burn marks, melted insulation, open junction boxes.
• Add-ons. Sub-panels, generators and solar tie-ins that were added over the years.

I am not a replacement for an electrician, and the 4-point does not test every circuit. It records what is visible and what is evident at a reasonable look. If I see something that worries me, I say so and suggest you have an electrician look closer.

What do I look at in the plumbing?

For plumbing, the report documents what the pipes are made of and whether there are signs of trouble. I look at the supply lines where visible, such as under sinks, at the water heater and at the main shutoff. I look at drain lines where they are exposed. I look for stains, active drips, corrosion at fittings and soft cabinet floors.

The materials matter. Copper, plastic types such as CPVC and PEX, and older galvanized steel each have their own age profiles and failure modes. Some older plastic piping types are ones insurers ask about, and the form has a place to record them. I identify what I can see and say plainly where a section is hidden behind a wall and cannot be identified.

The water heater gets its own check: type, size, age from the data plate, the temperature-pressure relief valve and its discharge pipe, signs of leakage or corrosion at the tank base, and the condition of the pan or drain if there is one. Data plates sometimes encode the age in the serial number, which I read and note.

What do I look at in the heating and cooling?

Florida homes depend on air conditioning, so the HVAC section is more than a formality. I identify each system, record its type and its approximate age from the data plate, and check whether it is operating. I look at the air handler, the condensing unit outside, the condensate drain line and the pan, and the supply and return ducting that is visible.

A system does not need to be new to be reported without concern; I note the condition I see. Signs I record include rust, corrosion on the coil, a clogged or disconnected drain, water stains around the air handler, damaged insulation on the lines and ducts that look kinked, crushed or dirty.

The report does not include a full performance test or a refrigerant check. If I notice that the system is not cooling or the air handler is leaking, I will say so, but fixing it is a job for an air conditioning contractor.

How should you prepare before the visit?

A few small steps save time and make the report more complete. None are required, and you can book without having done any.

1. Make sure I can reach the electrical panel, the water heater, the air handler and the attic hatch. Clear shelves, boxes and clutter in front of them.
2. Find paperwork on the roof, water heater, air conditioner and any rewiring or repiping. Installation dates matter on the form.
3. Let me know if any system is not working.
4. Unlock gates and make sure I can reach the outdoor unit and every side of the house.
5. Ask your agent which form the insurer wants and when the report is due.
6. Tell me if the house is vacant, occupied by tenants or being sold, and who can give access.

If the power or water is off at the house, tell me before I come. A visit to a dark house limits what I can check, and it is better to reschedule than to record items as unverified.

What does the visit look like from start to finish?

It starts with a request on the contact page. You send your name, mobile number, address and a line or two about why you need the report. I call you back, ask a few simple questions and agree on a day.

On the day I walk the exterior and the roof first, then go inside to the panel, the water heater, the plumbing under sinks and the air handler. I photograph each system, with wide shots to place it in the house and close shots of labels, data plates and any problem areas.

I write the report from those notes and photos. It identifies each system, gives its approximate age and describes its condition in plain terms. If I find something urgent, I tell you while I am still on site. Otherwise the written report follows.

How is the finished report used?

Owners and buyers use a 4-point report in several ways. Some send it to an insurance agent with an application. Some keep it as a record of the house. Some use it during a purchase to understand what they are inheriting. And some use it as a to-do list, because a clearly written condition report makes planning easier.

What happens after that is out of my hands. An insurer may accept the report as is, ask for more information or take a different view. I do not make promises about coverage, renewal or what anyone will charge. What I commit to is that the report states what I saw, in plain terms, and that the photos match the words.

A report also has a shelf life. Insurers often want a recent one, so a report done well before a deadline may be out of date by the time it is needed. Ask your agent how recent is recent enough.

What if the report shows problems?

Finding a concern in a 4-point is common and not a catastrophe. A water heater near the end of its life, a plumbing section that is older than you thought, an air conditioner with a drain issue: these are normal discoveries in an older house.

Having the information gives you choices. You can ask a tradesperson to look closer, you can plan a replacement before something fails, or you can discuss the finding with your insurer. If the concern is on the roof, the roof repair and replacement page explains how those decisions are approached.

I do not sell the repairs that the report might point to. The report is an independent record. You can take it to anyone you like.

How do I work out how old a system is?

Age is the single fact most insurers want from a 4-point, and it is often the hardest to pin down. Nobody remembers when the water heater went in. So I use several clues together and say how sure I am.

• Data plates. Water heaters, air handlers and condensing units carry a label with a model and serial number. Many makers encode the month and year of manufacture in the serial number, and I read it.
• Permits. A permit record for a roof, a replacement air conditioner or a rewire gives a firm date. Your city or county building department can often supply a copy.
• Paperwork. Closing documents, warranties and receipts that you kept.
• Appearance. Styles of fixtures, panel design and pipe materials date themselves to a range of years.

When I cannot tell, I write that the age is approximate and why. I would rather admit uncertainty on the page than invent a number. If you have a receipt or a permit, show it to me, because it settles the question better than any guess I could make.

What do I commonly see in Florida homes?

Patterns repeat from house to house, and knowing them ahead of time can take the surprise out of the visit.

Roofs. Shingle roofs that have aged faster than expected in the sun, tile roofs with slipped pieces, and vent boots that have split. Patches done years ago that no longer match.

Electrical. Panels that are full, with added circuits crowded in. Open slots in the panel cover. Outdoor outlets and garage wiring added later by someone other than an electrician. Homes with two generations of wiring side by side.

Plumbing. Water heaters in garages or closets with no drain pan. Corroded shutoff valves under sinks. Supply lines of mixed materials spliced together during repairs. Slab homes where pipe is not visible and age must be inferred.

Cooling. Condensate lines clogged with algae, which is almost a Florida tradition, rusty drain pans and units that sit low to the ground and take on splash and debris. Ducts in hot attics with tired insulation.

None of these is a verdict. They are things I record, and what happens next depends on you, your tradespeople and your insurer.

What if you are buying or selling an older house?

A 4-point is useful in a sale for both sides. A buyer sees what the four big systems look like before committing, and may find that an insurer will ask for the report anyway. A seller can have one ready, so questions about the roof, panel, pipes and cooling are answered in advance.

If you are buying, tell me the closing date and whether the insurer or lender has set a deadline. If you are selling, tell me whether tenants live there and how to arrange access. In both cases, the report describes the house on the day of the visit. It does not say how any system will behave in the future, and I do not guess.

Vacant houses bring a few extra questions. Power and water should be on, the air conditioning should be able to run, and I need a way in. If the utilities are off, the report can say only what it can see, and some items may be recorded as unverified.

How is a 4-point different from the other reports?

Owners often receive several different requests at once, and the names blur together. Here is a simple comparison.

Sometimes an owner needs two of these on the same visit. If that is you, tell me up front, and we can plan one trip instead of two.

Who am I, and how do I work?

I am Timothy Parks. I answer the phone, I come to the house and I write the report. If you want to know more about the way I work, read the about page. If you want the broader picture of all the reports, the home page gives an overview.

I serve homeowners, buyers, sellers and property managers across Florida. If the address is a long way from where I am working that week, I tell you so, and we find a day that fits instead of promising something unrealistic.

Ready to ask? Use the contact page, and I will call you back.

Which credentials do I hold?

These are the credentials I hold, listed as issued. They are Florida credentials, listed as facts about me and not as a statement about any other state.

• Florida Home Inspector, HI4878

Ask me what any of them covers and I will tell you plainly.

Common questions